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Crazy for Cappadocia

LIVEOUTLOUD — Mon, 02 Apr 2012 15:44:56 +0000

Cave Hotels among the fairy chimney rock formations of Cappadocia, Turkey.

If you can imagine a world of magical mushroom-shaped rock towers and hobbit-like underground cities, then you have a picture of Turkey’s Cappadocia region. Marcus Brewster and photographer Mark Leach returned spellbound

Any traveller to Turkey who doesn’t visit the surreal landscape of Cappadocia in central Anatolia is missing out on something spectacular. Covering a small area (around 300km²), the topography of Cappadocia was created millions of years ago by volcanic eruptions depositing ash which solidified into a substance called tufa. Highly prone to erosion and the tunnelling capabilities of humankind, the extraordinary scenery that has borne witness to the past 30 million years is a result of wind, rain, rivers and the extremes of winter temperatures which have caused the rocks to contract, expand and ultimately disintegrate.

Chief among Cappadocia’s signature attractions are the “fairy chimneys”, natural columns reaching up to 40 metres, so named by the earliest inhabitants because they believed them to be the chimney stacks of fairies that lived beneath the ground. The idea of a subterraneous race of beings proved to be a self-fulfilling prophecy since there are several troglodytic cities to explore in the region (some 36 exist but only a handful have been excavated).

Most impressive, most accessible and therefore most popular is the settlement of Derinkuyu. Extending to eight levels underground, Derinkuyu (meaning ‘deep well’) was home to some 20 000 people and contains stables, wine-presses, kitchens and churches – not to mention ventilation shafts. This multi-layered bunker was thought to have been linked by a 10km tunnel to a similar ant-hill city called Kaymakli.

Apart from marvelling at the ancient construction prowess of the two sites, you have to wonder what cataclysm – or threat thereof – motivated such an elaborate bolt hole. Was it a horde of marauding barbarians or an ice age that incentivised an entire city to tunnel for their lives? Interestingly, access to both settlements could be shut off by massive recessed millstones which rolled into place and which were engineered to only be opened from the inside to protect inhabitants from invaders. Fear of what evil could have made the good citizens of Derinkuyu take such elaborate precautions and implement such self-preservation strategies. This wasn’t a disaster of the order of the collapse of the euro, this was more like the sky falling on their heads.

These days, the only invaders of the region are awe-struck tourists and although staying in an underground city is not yet a hospitality option, staying in a cave certainly is. In fact, it’s almost impossible to find lodgings in Cappadocia that don’t offer a variation of the cell-like cave room carved out of the tufa outcrops.

In Urgup, a town now synonymous with the troglodyte cities hollowed out during the Byzantine era, there are a number of pensions offering between five to 12 rooms but almost nothing of any scale above. Thus it was with great pleasure that we sojourned at Urgup’s newest establishment, the MDC Hotel, the latest stellar addition to Urgup’s star-rated accommodation.

Built in a private valley overlooking a working farm (Urgup is renowned for its grapes), the MDC is significantly more in touch with the needs of luxury travellers than any other hotel in the region. Over 20 large rooms each with jacuzzis, restrained artisanal decor and an excellent restaurant distinguish the property. Make sure you try the incir tartlisi, a dessert of walnuts stuffed with figs, for a touch of indigenous culinary flavour.

The hotel’s capstone will be the construction of a swimming pool on the highest rock terrace behind the property in time for the 2012 season. Temperatures can soar in the summer months, as anyone who has ever travelled in the Mediterranean in July or August can testify, so this will give the MDC a further trump card in a winning hand.

Quite different in character is sister property, the Cappadocia Palace Hotel. Located next door to a monastery, the building retains a sense of its centuries past history when it originally served as lodgings for pilgrims visiting the adjacent seminary. Still fulfilling a hospitality function, the Cappadocia Palace has a monastic charm and is very conveniently located in striking distance of the village square.

Despite being in the heart of the region’s touring centre, Urgup has lost little of its old town appeal and still yields layers of Roman and Seljuk history to the patient traveller.

Urgup’s ancient name was Assiana and was later known as Bashisar under the Seljuks. There is plenty to see and do including the 13th Century remains of a Kadikalesi (castle); a museum containing ceramics, statuary, weapons, textiles, costumes and books; the Nukrettin mausoleum; the Altipali tomb and the Tasinaga library, named after a 19th Century village squire. However, these are amuse-bouches to the region’s banquet attraction – the Goreme Open-Air Museum.

To get the full impression of the area, every visitor must rise– literally – at dawn. That’s when great fleets of hot-air balloons lift off to drift across these weirdly wonderful landscapes. As one ascends and the magical enchantment of the valleys is touched by the softest pastel shades of breaking light, the human spirit glides upwards – to bear witness to the artistry of the devout and this spellbinding countryside which inspired them is enough to make one a believer. If not in God then at least in fairies!

Turkey’s Cappadocia region

Footprints of hope – the touching tale of educating against rhino poaching in South Africa.

LIVEOUTLOUD — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 11:01:06 +0000

The plight of Africa’s beautiful rhinos is one that has gotten a lot of attention in the past year, but unfortunately concern alone will not prevent the senseless slaughtering of these defenceless creatures. By Gordon Gilbert, soccer player for the MP Black Aces

In 2011, 488 rhinos were killed by poachers in South Africa.

To help awareness for the plight of the rhino, I have teamed up with luxury adventure travel company &Beyond (www.andbeyond.com ), and its social development partner, Africa Foundation, to launch the ‘Footprints of Hope’ campaign. The aim is to educate people in the communities surrounding &Beyond’s wilderness areas about the importance of rhino conservation.

I no longer look at a rhino and take such an incredible mammal for granted like I once did when I was a child. Rhinos inhabited planet Earth long before we humans did, so what gives us the right to dictate the terms of their survival? Humanity is now faced with the difficult challenge of protecting this magnificent animal from extinction. Every day rhinos are being brutally slaughtered for their horns and it’s time for people to take a united stand against rhino poaching. My one hope is that we all take a stand together to put an end to the senseless slaughter of one of Africa’s precious Big Five.

have been privileged enough to track rhinos in the wild and appreciate their grandeur and beauty up close, so this important cause is close to my heart. It is tragic to know that these gentle giants are being slaughtered for the misconception that their horns have healing powers. We can no longer allow these poachers to steal our heritage.

I was born in South Africa, grew up in Scotland, and then returned here to the country where my heart belongs. I am a South African with a Scotsman’s accent. I started playing professional soccer when I left school, played for three years in Scotland, and then decided to play in South Africa for a year. I am delighted to say that I have been here ever since, having played for both the Kaizer Chiefs and Moroka Swallows, and now the MP Black Aces.

I am completely committed to the rhino cause and, by using the ever-popular sport of soccer as a springboard, I hope to help &Beyond spread the vital message that Africa’s tourism industry relies on our national parks being home to the Big Five. Guests visit our parks and reserves to experience our wilderness and see wild animals in their natural surroundings.

This is how &Beyond and Africa Foundation’s Footprints of Hope “save the rhino” walk was born. Along with Mark Shaw (&Beyond Regional Ranger Trainer) and &Beyond expert ranger Lennox Mathebula, we set out on a 10-day awareness walk through the communities stretching between &Beyond’s Kirkman’s Kamp and Ngala Private Game Reserve. The message itself was simple, not to mention one of the very tenets that &Beyond is founded on — the fragile and yet completely interdependent relationship that exists between Africa’s wildlife populations and the people that live side-by-side with them. Every step of the way we spread awareness about the significance of the rhino, the benefits that it and other wildlife bring to the communities and the role that these communities can play in its preservation.

I was blown away by the response we received from the communities and their leaders. They welcomed us with open arms and really appreciated what we were trying to do. People invited us into their homes, provided us with healthy fruits en route, and many of them thanked us for caring and for taking the time to make a difference. That is what made it all worthwhile for me; to feel like I am making a difference is priceless.

Many of the people we spoke to were aware of the fact that rhinos are being poached, however, some revealed that they are either scared to report a poaching due to the risk they face, or they simply do not know who to report an incident to. We therefore linked the communities with a safe, anonymous way of reporting rhino poaching activity or suspects with their local conservation authority.

As part of our Footprints of Hope walk, we also encouraged the communities to come and play some friendly soccer matches. &Beyond promotes the maintenance of a healthy lifestyle through its Positive Health programme, aimed at staff and community members. Playing soccer in the unspoiled African bush was a truly amazing experience, definitely a first for me, and something that I will cherish for the rest of my life. I can honestly say that it is right up there with some of the best stadiums I have ever played in. And not many people can say that they scored a winning soccer goal in the Kruger National Park.

I challenge everyone to please make a difference wherever possible. The future of Africa’s rhinos depends on us and it is up to us to get involved and take a stand against illegal poaching.

Gordon Gilbert

Follow Footprints of Hope’s blog, www.andbeyond.com/footprints_of_hope, email safaris@andBeyond.com or visit www.andBeyond.com to learn more

Purely Pafuri

LIVEOUTLOUD — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 11:00:45 +0000

Having entered the Kruger National Park at its Pafuri gate, it was a further 22km stretch to my well-anticipated home for the next few days.

This drive proved to be an experience that could only be described as out of this world as I was engulfed by the ambient noise of distant bird calls and the droning buzz of the Cicada Beatles nested on countless Mopani Trees that line the roadside.

A herd of young Impala turned their heads inquisitively as I passed by as if they were the unofficial welcoming party. Soon enough I had arrived at my destination, The Wilderness Pafuri Camp situated in the Makuleke Concession alongside the Luvuvhu River in the far northern regions of “The Kruger” as the park is affectionately known by South Africans.

A path from the parking area leads onto a beautiful raised wooden deck where I was greeted by smiling staff in the reception area that swiftly went about their business retrieving my luggage.

Welcome drinks and cool damp cocoa scented face towels helped me settle into the short orientation and safety guidelines given by Sammy, the well-spoken camp manager. A short walk ensued onto a floating walkway with Nyala antelope, baboons and guinea fowl wandering seemingly undisturbed below as Sammy proudly pointed out that the camp was unfenced.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that my tented room at the Wilderness Pafuri Camp boasted a wooden floor balcony overlooking the river, a four-poster bed with a draping mosquito net suspended from the ceiling fit for African royalty and various luxuries reminiscent of a five-star hotel infused with the architectural styling indicative of the nearby Makuleke ruins. I took a few moments to explore my living quarters and enjoyed cooling down in the open air shower which is accessed through a glass door that leads outside from within the indoor shower and is concealed by the great Nyala tree that surrounds the tented room. I read the personal handwritten message left on my bed before making my way back to the main deck where the pool, bar and breathtaking views awaited.

Dinner was an intimate candlelit affair on the main deck. The Amuse-bouche or “Love-bite” as they call it at Pafuri was a succulent duck fillet. I had the pleasure of the company of an avid bird-watching Canadian couple and Enos, who would be our guide for the duration of our stay. Enos spoke proudly of his Makuleke heritage and the partnership between Wilderness Pafuri Camp and the local Makuleke people as we enjoyed the distinctly South African yet unique and beautifully presented cuisine.

Enos delivered a cheerful wake-up call at 5:00am the next morning and I was soon up and about in eager anticipaion of our first game drive. After an early breakfast we all set out to explore. There seemed to be nothing that our insightful guide did not know about the wild wonderland of flora and fauna that we slowly made our way through. We had several stops and pauses along our route taken to admire various sights pointed out by Enos. The highlight though must definitely be tracking down two lionesses along with their cubs after quite a tricky off-trail drive that saw Enos having to wield his machete on several occasions to clear our way.

Our drive ended with sundowners enjoyed at “Crooks Corner”, the point where the bone dry Limpopo and lush Luvuvhu rivers meet. It is also at this exact spot that Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique touch. A surprise visit by an African Elephant Bull digging for water a mere 20 metres from us was a pleasant end to a truly inspiring experience.

Luvuvhu RIver

Elephant bull at at Wilderness Pafuri Camp

Hippos in Luvuvhu river

Wilderness Pafuri Camp

For more information and to book an unforgettable experience at Pafuri Camp,visit www.wilderness-adventures.com or call (011) 257 5111.

The Heart of Africa

LIVEOUTLOUD — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 09:38:44 +0000

From the tropical coastline of Malindi to the untamed nature of the Masai Mara, LIVEOUTLOUD explores the spectacular sights of Kenya

The prospect of entering into the heart of Africa is one that takes a bit of processing. With political unrest and an air of untamed nature, Africa provides travellers with a different perspective to that of visiting the Western world with pristine five-star hotels and their manicured lawns. Donning my adventurer’s hat I venture into Kenya, home of the Masai Mara and, as it turns out, a coastline worthy of expressions such as “bliss” and “paradise”.

A short flight from Johannesburg lands us in Nairobi, a bustling capital with much the same air as home. Another short flight has us arriving in Mombasa – with a different climate entirely. I find myself shedding layers of clothing as the humidity assails me from every angle. Bearing north along the coastline towards Malindi Beach, the colourful culture of the Kenyan fishing lifestyle is laid out in front of me. Not unlike South Africa with its taxis and unruly traffic, however everything seems to be bursting with colour. Every taxi mini bus is a different colour, and every stall and shack is painted in vibrant hues. This against a backdrop of violently tropical greenery and cobalt blue sky makes me feel like I have just entered a recent Coca-Cola advert.

Arriving in Malindi, we are greeted with fresh, cold towels at the Diamonds Dream of Africa hotel. The exclusive five-star resort and spa, affiliated to Small Luxury Hotels of the World, is located along the silver sand beach of Malindi, steps away from the Indian Ocean and a long coral reef teeming with tropical personality. The rooms are large and air conditioned with bowls of tropical fruits waiting on the coffee tables and the beds decorated most exquisitely with native flowers laid out in patterns.

The Kenyan architecture is an eclectic Afro-Arabian mixture, with a touch of Italian persuasion. With palm trees, sparkling sand and flat ocean, you can recede back into your lounger and gently relax into a light daze.

Later sitting by the pool watching Mr and Mrs Hippo lugging their enormous bodies out of the water for a snooze on the banks, I was invited to enjoy a soothing African Hot Stone Massage at the Mvua African Rain Spa.

The next day we were taken out onto a glass bottomed boat, softly serenaded by the Kenyan captain, singing the “Jambo Song”. The water is so clear that one can see the tropical fish darting in and out of the coral. When we weighed anchor it was time to cut myself loose from my urban ties, don a pair of goggles and plunge into nature. As a pathological city-dweller, I had never snorkelled before and it took me a few heart pounding tries before getting the hang of it. A few minutes later I was in a scene from The Little Mermaid. I was Ariel with Flounder swimming beside me, along with Nemo, Dorie and Spongebob. A thousand times better than an animated film, I was entranced by the sheer amount of wildlife zipping this way and that.

After this unforgettable experience, the afternoon presented us with time to wonder lazily between the various hotels and spas along the coast, as well as the Masai markets. Very much like South African craft markets, it was interesting to experience the Kenyan spin on little wooden sculptures and masks.

The following day we made our way back to Nairobi, flying past the tip of Mount Kilimanjaro, peering out from a stretch of foamy clouds, which made me feel quite minuscule. In Nairobi we boarded large safari vehicles and travelled the six-hour trip to the Exploreans Mara Rianta Camp in the Masai Mara. The last two hours consisted of holding on very tightly to my seat as we navigated a very bumpy, rocky road. Unlike any nature reserve I have been to in South Africa, the Mara is a wide-open vastness of short emerald grass with very few scattered trees, and of course animals absolutely everywhere. If all you’ve seen in the Kruger Park are Impala at nauseam and a giraffe 100 metres away, this scene is quite spectacular to say the least. I felt as if I had gone back in time to where animals ruled the world and ran freely across the plains.

Arriving at the camp, I noticed there was no fencing. Situated on the banks of a riverbed inhabited by a family of about 60 hippos, Exploreans is an exclusive camp of only 20 luxury tents, built on elevated wooden platforms complete with king-size beds and enormous bathrooms, each with a private viewing deck, where the wildlife can be viewed all around you. Just as I was wondering about my safety, we were issued our own Masai Warrior to escort us to our tents, where they remained on hand to escort us back to the main area.

After a night of lying awake, listening to the sounds of the hippos honking at each other and a hyena which seemed to be chewing on something right next to my ear, we got up early to embark on the greatest game drive one can possibly hope for. Witnessing a lioness drag a freshly hunted, fully grown zebra to her den, where her new-born cubs were waiting for her, then chasing away the scavenging hyenas and jackals, all about an arm’s length away, was quite likely one of the most exhilarating moments of my life.

Later sitting by the pool watching Mr and Mrs Hippo lugging their enormous bodies out of the water for a snooze on the banks, I was invited to enjoy a soothing African Hot Stone Massage at the Mvua African Rain Spa. Feeling completely at rest and quite like a lazy Miss Hippo an hour later, we had lunch prepared by the in-house chef, whose food is nothing short of magnificent.
The evening game drive had us ogling at a herd of elephant, buffalo, a lazy leopard with its paws in the air, and a lone cheetah stretched out in the shade of a single tree, carefully eyed by nearby zebra.

I was distraught leaving the camp after a hearty breakfast the next morning. It was like leaving another planet. Being that close to nature has a spiritual affect on the soul, making one realise how life in the city can sometimes be very trivial and much too fast paced.

Dreamafrica

For more information on trips to magnificent Kenya visit www.africanencounters.com,www.planhotels.com, and www.kenya-airways.com

Living it up

LIVEOUTLOUD — Mon, 14 Mar 2011 09:54:01 +0000

If Las Vegas is endearingly referred to as “Sin City”, then presume her Balearic cousin is “Sin Island”. Andrew Ludwig bravely nominates to live dangerously

Beautiful Mediterranean beaches, roasting sun, warm ocean, beautiful people and more electro than you could beat a stick with; Ibiza is a truly hedonistic destination with many of the truths selectively left on the island.

Last September, my wing girl Rachael and I hit the last week of the clubbing season. This is a critical time to arrive as the clubs are having their notorious closing parties, attracting crowds of electro heads the world over. Our friend Kev, who’s been here for over a decade managing one of the popular bars in the Old Town, had planned our five night stay with a different super club each night and four days exploring the various beaches. It was to be a marathon.

We arrived on the island with some anxiety not quite sure what to expect. “Ola” we excitedly greeted the driver. “Migjorn Suites and Spa por favor.” With the music pumping we weaved through the streets and hurriedly checked into the Migjorn in Playa de Bossa where we were treated to two large suites on the pool edge. More than spacious enough to call home for a week, the mezzanine space of the suites features an upstairs bedroom, with a downstairs kitchenette and lounge area. We freshened up and moseyed on out to meet Kev at the “Rock” on the harbour’s edge in the beautiful bustling Old Town.

The Rock is a highly recommended bar to get island proceedings started. It’s nothing fancy (in its favour), yet attracts celebs and DJs, the likes of Maxi Jazz and Jay Kay, as it is an unassuming spot for them to chill and spin a few beats. We drank copious amounts of San Miguelle on tap, and Kev’s world famous mojitos. Park easy from 23:00 – 1:00am and observe the club parades down the strip, attracting revellers by showing off the professional podium dancers. Stand by… there are some crackers! Then it’s off to the clubs. Plan who you want to see in advance online as you are spoilt for choice – all the world’s top electro acts and DJs perform every night, in weekly concession for four months. This is the “unst unst” mecca and requires a bit about the clubs and the culture.

Of the 10 odd super clubs, each has a different crowd, theme and act each day of the week. No night is the same. One night a club may play commercial dance, the other gnarly techno, preceded by a transvestite theme that lays on a significant freak show! The largest is Privilege, boasting a capacity of over 8 000. Be warned, as clubbing in Ibiza is very expensive. Entrance fees range from €45 – €70 per club, while the drinks are a complete rip off! €7 for a small bottle of water and €12 for a San Miguelle. It would be worthwhile to drink before at one of the bars.

The first night we stormed AMNESIA with 5 000 other revellers. This is the oldest super club in Ibiza featuring the likes of Deadmau5, Paul Van Dyk, Ferry Corsten and club nights like Cocoon and the legendary Cream label. Partially dressed podium dancers entertained the boys, while large lace jellyfish flowed below the ceilings. The jet propelled air-conditioning unit bellowing from one side of the club with an icy Whooooosh deserves a mention! This fist night out required a long sleep to recover and particularly slow and skittish movements the next day around the hotel pool. Curse that Italian after party!

Round two was at the legendary PACHA, one of the more “sophisticated” super clubs, with a capacity of 3 000 peeps. Here you’ll get lost in the music on the dance floors or while exploring the endless stairways leading to further rooms, alcoves and roof terraces. We got to see the legend Erick Morillo ironically remembered for the Madagascar theme tune “I like to move it move it”. That said there was nothing commercial about his set.

Having rented a scooter, we explored the various beaches and discreet coves during the day, loading up on sunlight while rehydrating ourselves. One evening we found ourselves far out of town at Es Caliu, the best lamb restaurant on the island. Another evening we dined amongst the hills at AURA, a decadent restaurant/club/bar attracting the likes of Danny Rampeling, Seb Fontein and other big house DJs. The venue offers superb food, good looking guys and gals, with an ambiance to match.

We chose to explore the neighbouring island of Formentera on scooters, granting us access to some of the more spectacular beaches and restaurants. One stop to consider is GECO with its plush lawns that spill onto the white sands separating a warm inviting azur sea. We got back on the ferry, hailed a taxi and B-lined for the Blue Marlin to see our local boys Goldfish perform to a heaving, funked out, bikini clad crowd for a sundowner party on the water’s edge.

With one night left, it was off to SPACE to pay homage to the godfather of techno Mr Carl Cox himself. This is an institution and boasts residents like James Zebalia and acts like Pendulum. With all the lasers and wind machines, the 2 500 strong techno-mob were carried away with his stomping beats. Let’s not forget the appearance of the 10 foot Kryoman, entertaining the crowd as he danced, in a flashing diode suite, firing lasers off his wrist before igniting himself with fireworks eight feet above the crowd, suspended from the ceiling.

With very little sleep, combined with over 20 hours of break dancing, I was ready to crawl off the island with some outrageous memories. See you next year Kev!

Ibiza